Day 68 – Cowbutts and Indians ????

Waking up was a little odd without any natural light, but we shower and have a coffee before hitting breakfast

Some toast and fruit – something bland as we think we’re both affected by the bad air conditions giving us colds

We check out of this hotel and set off in the car for our next destination seeing many a cow along the side of the road

Have to stop as a train goes over the road – all windows and doors open (seems unlikely to have air conditioning on it!)

Arrive at Fatehpur Sikri Fort (meaning victory city)

In the 1500s, King Akbar (and father of the creator of the Taj Mahal) came to this place – originally called just Sikri – after seeking all types of religious remedies to have a child

He had three wives of differing religions and was told to come here because there was a family with special powers

The king walked here bare foot from further North India, about 350 miles – true dedication to wanting an heir!

He came and was blessed and just over 9 months after, his third – and favourite – wife gifted him a boy

After this, Akbar decided to set up camp here and made it the second capital of the Mughul empire

He ordered a fort to be made which had two sections: residence and religious

We visit the residence first (Diwan-E-Khas, Fatehpur Sikri)

The immaculately well-maintained gardens (now under UNESCO protection)

The gardens were previously a field for the local people to see the king and his 9 ‘gems’ or advisors hand out justice

Through to the private area which is the star of the show

We’re shown the place where Akbar the Great founded Din-i-Ilahi (“oneness of God”)

See symbols of multiple religions engraved in the red sandstone

Then in the main area, is a summer palace with several floors

Right in the centre, there’s a large playing board

The king would use ladies in pretty dresses as pieces who would be rewarded if they were winning pieces (with gold and jewellery) and punished if they lost (by being the dancing entertainment for that evening)

There’s a pool that would have previously been filled with rose water for the nice smell and encourage the ladies to take a dip

Now it’s just filled with rainwater

We’re guided through to the kings chambers where he had a summer and winter sleeping areas which were all connected to where his three wives could access

Finally, we’re shown where each of Akbar’s wives had their private quarters

All three were different and had the requirements to be happy in each of their religions

Though, it was clear to see his third, Hindu wife was the most cherished

She had her own palace akin to the size of the general areas we’d passed through before!

Important around here, especially, as this wife was from Jaipur (a neighbouring town)

Onto the religious segment of the fort

This is an area where all people from all religions can visit and pray side by side

There are two entries and we enter from the previous King’s Gate where the royals would have entered this space

This entrance is now available for public use

It has the Holy Tomb of Hazrat Salim Chishti (the special person who helped Akbar produce a child) and all the generations of this person are housed within the walls

There’s even a little passage way at the back which used to be a direct line to Agra fort 40km away!

Though, this passage has suffered and collapsed over the 550 years, since it was made, due to construction since

We’re guided to collect a cloth that is made here and a token for people to purchase where the money is all given to support the local poor (the cloth, each day, is also given to the poor for them to make items from them)

We go into the tomb and it’s common knowledge that you gift the cloth, some rose petals and you receive a strong back to make three wishes

White marble in the style of Akbar’s son, like the Taj Mahal

The other gate is the victory gate and adds to the meaning behind the name change of the area: Fatehpur means “victory city”

This is the tallest gate in the whole of Asia

Akbar the Great was very proud of this city and it shows with the extent of this fort

We head back to the car and go onto a lunch spot

Rudra Mahal is our pit stop for some grub

Large butter chicken with garlic naan and two bulbous veg samosas to get us through

Back on the road, many miles until our destination just yet

Brief stop, as our driver has been going for about 4 hours straight, for some tea!

Last stretch of the 282km driving trip today and we make it to our hotel for the night: Hotel Ankur Resort

We arrive! We get settled and straight out to dinner

Our driver, Yunis, knows a nearby place that has very, very fresh home-cooked food

Large mutton keema curry with a roti, steamed rice, a couple of kingfishers… and a little Indian whiskey ????

Stuffed and happy, we head back to our bed for an early night ????

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